We landscape photographers worship the golden hour, that magical time when light bathes our subjects in warm, directional glory. So when our schedule meant reaching Hvítserkur in early afternoon, I faced a classic photographer's dilemma: harsh midday sun and one of Iceland's most iconic formations.
The Sentinel of Northern Iceland
Standing 15 meters tall on the eastern shore of the Vatnsnes peninsula, Hvítserkur rises from the Húnaflói bay like a creature frozen in time. Local legends claim it's a petrified troll caught by sunlight while attempting to destroy church bells. Geologically, it's a basalt dyke eroded by the sea, with two arches forming what resembles an elephant drinking from the water.
Rather than lament the timing, I embraced the challenge. The harsh midday contrast that typically flattens color images actually intensifies the dramatic potential of black and white photography.
Transforming Limitations into Opportunities
I set up my tripod at water's edge, fitted my 10-stop ND filter, and composed with the formation centered in frame. The technical approach was deliberate:
- Long exposure (60 seconds) to smooth the water surface
- Low ISO (100) to maximize image quality
- Black and white conversion to emphasize form over color
- Careful exposure to maintain detail in both shadows and highlights
The resulting image transforms what would have been a challenging color photograph into a minimalist study of texture, form, and contrast. The smooth water creates a mirror-like base that emphasizes the rugged textures of the rock formation.
Beyond Technical Execution
What fascinates me about Hvítserkur isn't just its visual impact but how it connects to Iceland's rich mythology. Standing there, watching waves lap against this ancient sentinel, I couldn't help but imagine the troll caught in stone, forever facing the horizon.
This transformation – from harsh midday light to moody monochrome – mirrors the legendary transformation in the Icelandic folklore. Both involve an elemental change catalyzed by light.
Rethinking Photography "Rules"
The next time you're faced with shooting during "bad" light, consider how technical choices can transform limitations into creative opportunities:
- Could black and white conversion emphasize form and texture?
- Might long exposure transform mundane water into a silky canvas?
- Can harsh contrast become dramatic rather than problematic?
Some of my most satisfying images have come from challenging conventional wisdom about "perfect" conditions. This Hvítserkur image reminds me that photography rules, like the trolls of Icelandic legend, sometimes benefit from being turned to stone.
Have you ever created an image during "bad" light that surprised you with its results? What techniques helped you overcome challenging conditions? I'd love to hear your stories in the comments below.
If you're planning your own trip to Iceland, my "Iceland Photography Locations" guide includes detailed directions and timing recommendations for Hvítserkur and other iconic sites – even for when you can't arrive at golden hour.
