Jonathan Gardner
Landscape

Worth Every Bump: Discovering Dettifoss from the Road Less Traveled

The eastern approach to Dettifoss isn't for the faint-hearted—a kidney-jarring hour on unpaved roads. But as I stood before Europe's most powerful waterfall from this less-visited vantage point, capturing its raw force up close, I knew every bump was worth it.

Worth Every Bump: Discovering Dettifoss from the Road Less Traveled
Powerful Dettifoss waterfall in Iceland thundering over basalt cliffs with moss-covered rocks and billowing mist from eastern viewpoint.

That moment when you question all your life choices—I had it about 30 minutes into the kidney-jarring drive along the eastern access road to Dettifoss. My camera gear rattled ominously in the backseat as I navigated what seemed less like a road and more like a roller coaster carved from Icelandic bedrock. But something told me to keep going, despite the protests from both my rental car and my spine.

The Journey Few Take

Most visitors to Dettifoss—Europe's most powerful waterfall—opt for the western approach with its paved road and easy access. I'd been there before, standing shoulder-to-shoulder with dozens of other photographers, all capturing essentially the same wide-angle shot.

This time, I wanted something different. The eastern approach promised fewer crowds and a more intimate perspective of the falls, if you were willing to pay the price: an hour of bone-rattling travel over what locals generously call a "road." As I inched forward, the thunderous roar grew louder, building anticipation with every bump.

Nature's Raw Power Revealed

When I finally arrived and hiked to the edge, I understood immediately why this journey was worth every uncomfortable moment. From this vantage point, Dettifoss isn't just seen—it's experienced. The sheer volume of water—500 cubic meters per second—crashes down with such force that the ground beneath your feet trembles.

What struck me most was the contrast: violent, churning water against delicate moss-covered rocks; blinding white spray against black basalt cliffs. From the eastern side, you're close enough to feel the mist on your face, to witness the intricate patterns in the flow that aren't visible from across the canyon.

Capturing the Untamed

Photographically, this perspective presented both opportunities and challenges. The constant spray meant I had to protect my lens and time each shot carefully between wipe-downs. I opted for a slightly faster shutter speed (1/250) than typical waterfall photography to capture the textural details in the water's surface while still conveying movement.

The close-up composition allowed me to emphasize the interplay between the water's raw power and the surprisingly vibrant moss clinging to rocks at the precipice—life thriving at the edge of chaos. This juxtaposition tells a story that the standard wide-angle view cannot.

Beyond the Beaten Path

As photographers, we often face a choice: take the easy road to the familiar shot or endure some discomfort for a perspective few have seen. That bumpy eastern road to Dettifoss reminded me why I choose the latter.

What photography journey has tested your limits but ultimately rewarded your perseverance? Or perhaps you know other hidden perspectives in Iceland worth exploring? I'd love to hear your stories. And if this image of Dettifoss calls to you as it does to me, prints are available through my gallery, bringing the raw power of Iceland's wilderness into your space.

Jonathan Gardner

Nature photographer, broken rugby player, beer snob & spicy food lover based in the Pacific Northwest. NOLA -> WA

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