A pied kingfisher perches on a Kenya Wildlife Service sign in Amboseli National Park, a fish in its bill, under a bruised Kenyan sky. The stenciled words read "Employer: Kenya Wildlife Service," and the bird had plainly taken the post for itself. For days we watched it fish, then fly to this sign, where it beat each catch against the wood before eating. The board was stained from the meals that came before. Each day we failed to get into position. On this day we did, and I had only seconds before it swallowed and left.